as i continue driving further south, i notice changes. the scenery is now much more tropical & hilly (like hawaii). the people have darker skin (mayan influence?). the military checkpoint even noticed the camera & searched my car (better than anyone else has so far). and best of all, in the state of chiapas, the topes are few, small & with signs!

it was nice driving through the capital of chiapas…it’s nice to be in a city again…even if i don’t stop, just to see buildings that aren’t hotels and traffic lights instead of topes. the drive from the capital to san cristobal de las casa is awesome. it’s about 30 miles horizontal…but a few miles vertical…which brings you up into the clouds surrounding the capital. the temperature is cool & the landscape entirely different (more like yosemite). in a small valley up in the heavens is the tiny city of san cristobal. almost all the streets are small & one way. each block is a solid mass of building & wall, but behind this concrete exterior lie beautiful gardens and patios. na bolom, a great mayan resource (with over 9,000 books on the mayans) is a perfect example. behind the plaster exterior lies a large garden oasis where they even nurse trees to be planted in the forests of chiapas. lonely planet has some great advice on food and lodging…although they neglected to mention that you can sleep in their guest houses surrounding the gardens for ~$40/night….certainly not the cheapest option, but the proceeds go to the ngo.